Erik Anderson is a maestro of Nashville’s award-winning The Catbird Seat and Minneapolis’ Grand Café. Now he helms a kitchen as Executive Chef during San Francisco’s Coi, where he’s regulating an ancient varietal of citrus famous as etrog. What is etrog? It’s typically used ceremonially during a Jewish festival of Sukkot, yet doesn’t mostly uncover adult in excellent cuisine. We spoke to Anderson for a lowdown on this intriguing, zesty, frequency seen fruit.
When did we initial confront etrog?
At a Marin Farmers Market. It was a unique, odd-looking thing and we was usually captivated to it. One of a initial things we beheld when we changed to California, since I’m still flattering new here, was the variety of citrus available. It’s flattering extraordinary seeing ingredients you’ve never see before, shopping them and holding them to a restaurant.
Is it like yuzu?
No, completely different, it’s unequivocally a possess thing. It’s like a OG lemon, that was a initial one.
Does it go by any other names we competence recognize?
Etrog is also called citron, and it’s one of a 3 strange citruses. The others are mandarin, that orange varietals are subsequent from, and a third is a form of orange called makrut, that is a strange lime. I adore it since there’s a good story behind it. we like food that we can have a review about.
How is a season opposite from lemon?
It’s some-more floral. To me a blurb lemon is equivocal tasteless, like a blurb egg. When you taste a pleasing plantation egg, you’re like “oh shit, this is what it’s ostensible to ambience like.” We go by a ton of eggs — my bland egg is a Jidori hen egg. Then we source smaller plantation eggs from smaller purveyors when we put yolks on a menu.
What’s your favorite partial about cooking with etrog?
Etrog is fascinating to me since it smells like Buddha’s palm — and what a ruin do we do with Buddha’s hand? You liking it, it’s all pith, most like etrog. It’s bitter, yet a smell of it is positively phenomenal. It’s everything we wish a blurb lemon to be, and it reminds me of limoncello. Me and my aged partner Josh Harberger are unequivocally large fans of Amaro. Using etrog is desirous by him really, and a adore for Amaro.
How do we offer it during Coi?
I suspicion instead of celebration Amaro after a final delicious march like a digestif, what if we could eat it? We cut the etrog and restrict it over and over in Amaro Meletti, so it unequivocally pulls in a amaro season into a fruit. It still has that bitterness, yet it’s somewhat honeyed with herbal notes. We semi-freeze it, and offer it cold over ice.
How’s a response been?
I consider people are into it. It’s a tiny punch with an astonishing flavor. If we unequivocally like Amaro, you’re going to adore it. If you’re not a fan of bitter, it competence be somewhat off-putting yet we haven’t seen any come behind uneaten.
If someone finds etrog during a farmers market, how do we suggest operative with it for a initial time?
To be ideally honest, we still don’t really know! Compressing it was usually thing we could consider to do with etrog because it doesn’t enclose most extract during all. The liking is incredible, though. You know what? Make your possess etrog limoncello. Put the liking in some vodka and forget about it for a while. Or candy a peels.